Surprisingly the prehistoric site of Avebury, which contains the largest megalithic stone circle in the world, is less well-known than Stonehenge, even though it is equally as fascinating and mysterious and – uniquely – has a relatively modern-day village running through its heart.
In fact, the picturesque thatch-roofed Red Lion pub at Avebury sits right in the middle of the rather complex ancient site, and has developed its own mysterious reputation for being one of the most haunted pubs in Britain.
The pub is not haunted by Neolithic apparitions, though – its ghosts take the form of a coach and horses clattering on the forecourt at midnight, and a bereaved 17th century woman called Florrie whose husband killed her and her lover and threw her down the well. That well, which it is said her phantom has been seen climbing in and out of, is now incorporated as a glassed-over feature table in the pub itself – an interesting place to enjoy a pint after you’ve explored the area.
Let’s return to the prehistoric site itself. Unlike Stonehenge Avebury’s stones are not arranged in a single ring, but form a series of avenues that wind through the village and surrounding countryside.
Walking amongst grassy lanes feels like stepping into a forgotten world, where nature and the spirits of the ancestors seem to intermingle. It’s little wonder that Avebury has been adopted as a sacred site by groups like Pagans, Druids, Wiccans and New Agers, who often hold rites and perform ceremonies at the site.
Avebury’s stones were placed over a long period of time, likely from around 2600 BC. Once, it is believed, there were about 600 stones, although only around 76 still survive today, some of them partially buried. You can walk around and touch the stones, and there’s no entry fee to explore the site.